A legendary Jil Sander print by Craig McDean

There has been a lively discussion around the recent Inez and Vinoodh post that raised very smart questions about the chances a new generation of photographers have in breaking into the campaign market. That discussion has led to a flurry of calls to TI and let's just say if there IS indeed a recession looming, brands are bracing themselves for it by taking no chances. And when we say brands, its almost as if you have to start thinking of the current photography establishment as brands in and of themselves.
Think Meisel Inc. Testino Unlimited. Sims Corp. One Hiss Squader actually mused to me yesterday over lunch that , "If I were a blue chip photographer and I saw trouble coming, I would totally be locking down jobs with those mass market companies. I mean when the money runs out people might be buying fewer alligator handbags but I don't think Target or The Gap is going to be bouncing checks anytime soon"
Will that conventional wisdom hold up? You'd be surprised as to what some of the bigger names in the biz are lensing...on the down low.

In the meantime Testino Unlimited is shooting an All-Testino issue of German Vogue right this minute, including a Top 10 New Models edit with a short-list so spot-on I almost want to leak it. Almost lol.

Natasha Poly adds sexy to her repitoire of editorial looks in the new Self Service

You know this by now. Not much will change in the ranks of the girls clients consider directional and marketable enough to front their brands. Natasa, Anja, Malgosia, Kate...The tried and the trued will find their bread well buttered. A girl like Snejana for instance, long past the status of being a fad already has found herself on set for one of those high profile brands that everyone kills to book.

The real suspense lies in the challenge of which of the 25 or so 'runway breakthroughs' that I'm currently tracking at MDC will actually convert into girls with an editorial and campaign career. I can't tip my hand too much but Paris for me was the story of Aline W of One in NY (& Elite Paris) and Amanda Laine at Supreme (& Women Paris). They are two very different kind of girls but with an obvious hardcore insider fashion appeal. Its great that Aline, the same Brazilian 15 year old who spoke no English and was very unhappy in NY three years ago is the toast of all Paris right now. And Amanda, a girl NY didn't get goes on to open both McQueen and Miu-Miu in Paris. I'm fascinated by her face. Her make-up at the Balenciaga converted her into this severe, almost intimidating power-woman. Its a clear sign that she'll be a great girl for the blue chippers to play with in upcoming months in the glossies. I can only imagine those options!