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Viva V Hollywood

Brad Pitt Ph by Testino for V 49Brad Pitt Ph by Testino for V 49

Its a big big Hollywood scoop for the biggest issue of V ever. V49 boasts Brad Pitt riding its new cover in high style lensed by Mario Testino. Favorite fashion story? Mert n Marcus beautifully pixilated "Scents Of The Future" edit. Issue review later today!

Ned Ambler: A Great American Eye

Jean and Amandaray Ph. Ned AmblerJean and Amandaray Ph. Ned Ambler

It is just like five years ago when every ambitious young thing landing in NY felt compelled to declare themselves a stylist. And five years before that a DJ or a "publicist" if not the ungodly hybrid of "publicist to DJ's" . I really ought not to talk but now the new thing in NY is to be a casting director with fantastic new people like Daniel Peddle, Jessica Weinstein and Julia Semonova locking it down with some stronger and stronger clients each season.
But in the same way that you have to fall silent at the mention of Judy Blame in the field of styling, the name Ned Ambler is just iconic when it comes to the proposition of casting. In the 90's his was the eye that resulted in club kids like Jenny Talia being scraped off the sidewalks of Avenue A and deposited in a flourescent white photo-studio for CK Jeans. How great it was in the mid-90's to have a city bus dock beside you and see all the kids from the clubs ( Lois Samuels, Richard Elms, Jenny Shimuzu) profiling for CK 1. Ambler was indefatiguable in his hunt for strong, real, immediate faces , fresh off the streets . Everyone from Levi's to Versace, Jil Sander, Valentino, and Dolce & Gabbana harnessed Ambler's brave and open eye to create a great moment in fashion. Magazines like Vogue, Italian Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, W, Interview, Details, and The Face got a dose of realness via his intervention.

The Social Climber's Guide to NY: Thursday Night Special

Purple # 8 Starring Andre Ph. Terry Richardson b/w ThE Dash Snow bookPurple # 8 Starring Andre Ph. Terry Richardson b/w ThE Dash Snow book

True quote of the day:
"With fashion, a lot of people get it but how many can give it?"

The mobs may have been screaming for Carrie Underwood, Jessica Alba and Nicole Ritchie at Fashion Rocks but a clique of cool kids kept it really real on Grand Street as 3 gallaries had simultaneous openings. Marilena Borgna's "Rock n Roll Diaries" launch at the Dactyl Foundation got premium young fashion points . Probably because of Marilena's past stint as casting director of sorts for Vogue Italia, many a model was there. The photographs (which were incidental to the kids assembled) were actually color xeroxes taped to the wall. Very teenaged bedroom reverie. There were two A-list Italian Vogue cover girls in the house (Adina + DJ Agyness jacking the decks with co-hort Jacky)
Kate Bosworth toy boy James Rousseau was there. Evening's host Scott Lipps was present hob nobbing with lots of mister hipsters. I bet a few of them were massive rock stars of the ARCKID ilk. Where, oh where does he find the energy? Incroyable! My co-hort Betty Sze was snapping away... so this evidence you'll see on MDC later today.

Burning Bright In The Forests Of The Night

Tyger Tyson. 1998: Ph. Jayson KeelingTyger Tyson. 1998: Ph. Jayson Keeling

I love large format photographs and ended up buying one today. I'm not a groupie. I've just always adored this 8 X 10 polaroid of the young Tyger Tyson, at the start of his career before he became Tyger Inc. The self-protective gesture of his hands, the fire in his eyes (is that pride or anger ?) and the red on red tonality is what makes this photograph memorable for me. That William Blake poem loops in my mind everytime I see it.

Log On To Mogollon

Mogollon 2007 Promo LogoMogollon 2007 Promo Logo

What or who could possibly be next in the super-sped up world of design and art direction? Putting a vote in for the Brooklyn based design/art direction/motion graphics/internet radio team of Mogollon comprised of Francisco Lopez and Monica Brand. Minimal they're not but that's important because as much as we sense the chill of a retro-minimalism brewing in the image trade, the curling excesses that computer assisted design can give you is an important counter-balance. Their CV is very Absolut Vodka, Le Book, PS/1 Moma as well as Tokion (where we discovered them) and Matador Records. The style is versatile and funny and quirky and well worth tracking to see if fashion clients bite. And wouldn't you know, they're already slinging prints, T-shirts and fonts. Viva ambition.

Agyness Deyn: Incredibly Big In Japan

Agyness Deyn Ph. Dan Martensen for Spur JapanAgyness Deyn Ph. Dan Martensen for Spur Japan

Restrain !Restrict! Reserve!

At Team Gallery: Gradar Eide  Einarsson: Judge , Sept 6- Oct 13 2007At Team Gallery Gradar Eide Einarsson: Judge , Sept 6- Oct 13 2007

In the spirit of the staff of that certain Chelsea boutique with the $7,500 shearling jackets. Much like the agent for Kasia Struss during NY Fashion Week. Ladies and gentlemen the NY art gallery chilled to the maximum in sang froid ; Team Gallery, back in biz with a Sept 6 opening of Norwegian artist, Gradar Eide Einarsson's "Judge" show . Yes as in Judge Dredd vs Judge Schreber. Can't wait to see whose sang has the most froid.

Early Warning System: Sandra Backlund

Sandra Backlund: Blank Page Collection. Model Haidy MottusSandra Backlund: Blank Page Collection. Model Haidy Mottus

There's a current thought circulating in the image trade which holds that we're seeing the decentralization of the traditional fashion loop of NY/Lon/Milan/Paris. The idea is that the next wave of directional design talent is going to come from unexpected places but move through the mainstream of that 4 city grid with a kind of amped up digital speed. In other words, new talent is coming to the cities fully armed with a highly articulated product. If so the blogsphere has become a space of its own for the discovery and stealth marketing of freshly emergent designers. Take for instance the case of the brilliant young knitwear designer Sandra Backlund.

Sandra Backlund: Diamond Cut Diamond Collection. Model Carolina KSandra Backlund: Diamond Cut Diamond Collection. Model Carolina K

Early Warning System: The Steidl/7L Chapter

Babeth: Published by 7L. Coming soon!Babeth: Published by 7L. Coming soon!
Two major books looming from 7 L and Steidl (for our money, the best makers of fashion books on the planet, right now). The first: current Numero editor and Jill magazine legend Babeth Dijan has her own album coming. Includes all the big hitters such as Mert Alas & Marcus Pigott, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Nathaniel Goldberg, Karl Lagerfeld, Peter Lindbergh, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Guido Mocafico, Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello, Liz Collins, Solve Sundbo, Camilla Akrans, Greg Kadel, Dusan Rejlin, Ellen von Unwerth, Paolo Roversi. And that makes it a must for the reference library of every young fashion-head looking for an education.

Metamorphoses Of An American: Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld. Steidl. Coming soon.Metamorphoses Of An American: Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld. Steidl. Coming soon.

Marilyn Minter's Magnificent Mess!

Marilyn Minter published by Gregory R Miller and CoMarilyn Minter published by Gregory R Miller and Co

You'll want to snap up the Marilyn Minter's monograph published by Gregory R. Miller & Co asap, because its a surefire collector's item. Minter's name has been in recent circulation amongst the fashion press because of Tom Ford's decision to drop her imagery of the Tom Ford For Men fragrance. As a spokesperson for Tom Ford Beauty announced to Women's Wear Daily, “We loved the original Marilyn Minter images, but while on a shoot with [Terry Richardson] in Milan, we decided that a sharper, more graphic approach clearly communicated the bold and provocative mood of the fragrance.” A more graphic approach doesn't necessarily mean "clean lines" though. The new ads are apparently to feature the desireable fragrance bottle placed tightly in between a woman's crotch.

Tom Ford. Ph by Marilyn Minter  New York MagazineTom Ford. Ph by Marilyn Minter New York Magazine

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