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CAN NEW YORK GET ITS GROOVE BACK?

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week S/S 08Mercedes Benz Fashion Week S/S 08

While trawling the agencies all week (its not as seedy as it sounds) to scan the scene, TI picked up on a strange frequency. Apart from a faint enthusiasm as to what referential/vintage road Marc might go down next, there is not, in general, a sense of excitement at the modeling agencies regarding the upcoming shows. Of course there is the customary dread as to the 17 non-stop days of booking between now and the end of the NY shows. There is the bracing for the daily abuse that is sure to come from stressed out, harried casting directors screaming “What do you mean Calvin has her exclusive? How about if I don't book a single one of your models then?” And then there are the endless after-parties that one is obliged to trot your prize girls around as if NY had become one massive pony show. So make that 17 non-stop 17 hour days. And the windfall from all that? Obscure designers who pay in trade, offering unwanted clothes to the models in lieu of cash. An off-skelter schedule toe-jammed with shows which means major conflicts every day. Clients switching around casting directors with reckless abandon. Casting directors taking shows that pay a grand total of $4,000. And the compensation to the models is still “trade” which means said casting director is expected to solicit top girls for next to nothing while being paid next to nothing. It is not as glamorous a living as you'd hope to think.

THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING EXTREME

Chris Burden : Locus and Publishing CoChris Burden : Locus and Publishing Co

Chris Burden's dedication to the ideal of the extreme has made a myth of the man. From his graduate piece in his Master Of Fine Arts program at UC Irvine where he locked himself in a school locker for five days, to his decision in November 1971 to make a piece called "Shoot", in which a friend fired a gun fifteen feet away from him to create a "wound" as art piece, Burden has certainly pushed art's self-definition to its edge. Almost self-destructively so. But it is the April 23 1974 performance, in Venice California when Burden had himself cruxified to a Volkswagen and then driven for probably a good 30 seconds on a speedway, that his place was secured in the annals of art infamy. It was supposed to be the kind of anti-art, not made for consumption or for that matter- for posterity - but here it is, one of the greatest images in contemporary art history and the cover moment of the must-buy overview of Burden's work. Currently available via D.A.P. By Locus and Publishing Co. $85.00.

Everything Is Image: Or How An Art Director Saved My Life

Some of Marc Atlan's Greatest HitsSome of Marc Atlan's Greatest Hits

From I-phones to limited edition Nikes, why has design become this much of a market force? Is it that we're experiencing an on-going visual evolution of contemporary culture in the same way we are under-going a technological revolution? I'm not trying to write a master's thesis. (Part of the discipline of The Imagist for me is to learn to be...succinct). I'm just trying to figure out how the hell the whole world got to be so design sensitive. When did American product packaging start to overwhelm its content? To personalize the issue a little bit... I was out out to dinner last night with a pal from an ad agency, when the subject turned to Fabien Baron and his powerhouse agency Baron and Baron. It is not a company anymore it seems.It is a brand in itself, if you'll pardon that dirty word..."brand".

Baron you know from the firm's traditional image management of magazines : Paris Vogue, the 90's Harper's Bazaar- which obviously I've been looking at a LOT- Interview magazine, Arena Homme +, as well as fashion ads -most notably Calvin Klein. We gossiped a little bit about the influence Le Baron and Karl Templer now had over the direction of Calvin, down to the models, in which that team seems not to be as personally invested in. Certainly not the way Calvin the man invested in Kate Moss and Brooke Shields and now no girl or boy for Calvin is allowed to be a bigger story than the clothes.

NUIT BLANCHE: MUST SEE

Matali Crassett is  HOT!Matali Crassett is HOT!

Paris Fashion Week, Sept 30th - Oct 8th.

M/M Bop ! (a/k/a I Love A Glossy Gray Finish)

Inventory/InventoireInventory/Inventoire

Who misses the controlled extravagance of the M/M (Paris) pages of Paris Vogue? Who didn't buy extra copies of V Man 1 to archive that landmark "Alphabet Story" that turned the leading male mannequins of that moment into letters of the alphabet? . The Imagist is guilty on all counts and is planning to pay penance by buying Alphamen,a limited edition box set of 27 one colour silkscreen prints (in an edition of 26 at aprx. $8,000). That is, unless you beat TI to the punch. If you do we're just going to have to settle for the book Inventory/Inventoire (multiple edition at aprx $20).

Reference Library: Current Viewing

Nastassja Kinski : Exposed!Nastassja Kinski : Exposed!.

Fashion Week with its 16 hr days is upon us. To survive, it's all about the brilliantly bad movies before bedtime. Tonight's feature presentation is..."Exposed" . Directed by James Toback . Starring Nastassja Kinski (y'know daughter of, famous for the snake shot by Avedon) and Rudolph Nuryev (where does one start). They're lovers. She's a model. He's a violinist. Shot in NY and Paris. Back copy says " a seductive romantic thriller that takes you into the glittering world of high fashion- and the murky, violent mileu of international terrorism". Very credible, this premise, no? But we love the poster's reference to exposed film stock and Nasty Kinky's high 80's hair. Available only on VHS. Alas!

MIA FOR WORLD PRESIDENT!

MIA's Boyz: Kingston RulesMIA's Boyz: Kingston Rules

THEY (The NY Times, W, MTV) are mainstreaming her like a mother but The Imagist lives and dies for MIA as the most now, most forward fashion icon around. And we're not going to quit cheerleading till the best artist of this dance music moment cops several major fash mag covers. The more units she moves, the closer we get to the dream. Why do we live ? The shortlist:

*Because she dared to venture deep into downtown Kingston (Jamaica W.I) assembling an army of eighty of the island's best (that is to say -most energetic) dancehall kings, cut them loose and then played spectator in her spectacular video for Boyz.

*And she dragged Carri Mundane of Cassete Playa along for the chi-chi bus ride. Kingston Boyz +Cassette Playa= inspirational styling madness. See the " making of" Boyz video at youtube.

*Because she cuts up her own outfits, her own artwork and graphics and come to think of it...her own sonic productions. Very multi-culti global urban Day-glo DIY .

*Because when in NY she chills in Bed Sty. Do or die MIA!

* Cuz Kala is the album of the year.Join our cult today . Available on itunes right now !

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