This photograph was taken in May 2000 back when I fancied myself a stylist. The image is an out-take from a 10 page black and latino hair story that tried to capture the extravagant hair-styles the kids on the streets were beginning to rock . The photographer, Jayson Keeling and I were working for a "edgy" urban magazine at the time that would freak out everytime you showed anything outside of expected values. This particular pic was not a problem but the one with a kid with a "wipe" (think early Prince: hair straightened, flipped to one side, asymmetrical over one eye) was to be edited. I walked out . I felt guilty for years that the hard work JK put into this shoot was never rewarded. So we're going to re-shoot the whole thing again. From scratch. Just because. Except for this pic which we are not going to try to replicate, though I could probably execute all its mechanics in a much slicker way now.
Submitted by Wayne on Tue, 2007-08-28 00:04.
Designers are my DJ. Really they are. Though all roads probably lead back to Michel Gaubert (except the one that leads to Jeremy Healy) a directional runway can really turn you on to some great music. Remember the season that was full of Depeche Mode remixes, most notably the acoustic treatments of Down To The Bone at the FW 06 Calvin Klein show. Then there was last season's Jil Sander show that featured the note perfect use of Balanescu Quartet's string version of Kraftwerk's Computer Love from the Possessed album. Its Raf Simons who gets maximum "taste-points" in the music department for his use of Swedish " group" Porn Sword Tobacco in that same show. Their latest CD is out (well its actually one guy, Henrik Johnson) and though some might dismiss it as wishy washy ambient shite we prefer forcedexposure.com's invocation of its "frosted glass aesthetics". The cover is very the colours of Oliver Theyskens for Ricci no?
Submitted by Wayne on Mon, 2007-08-27 15:04.
Teri Toye was born a boy but found being a boy a bore
Submitted by Wayne on Sun, 2007-08-26 18:43.
While trawling the agencies all week (its not as seedy as it sounds) to scan the scene, TI picked up on a strange frequency. Apart from a faint enthusiasm as to what referential/vintage road Marc might go down next, there is not, in general, a sense of excitement at the modeling agencies regarding the upcoming shows. Of course there is the customary dread as to the 17 non-stop days of booking between now and the end of the NY shows. There is the bracing for the daily abuse that is sure to come from stressed out, harried casting directors screaming “What do you mean Calvin has her exclusive? How about if I don't book a single one of your models then?” And then there are the endless after-parties that one is obliged to trot your prize girls around as if NY had become one massive pony show. So make that 17 non-stop 17 hour days. And the windfall from all that? Obscure designers who pay in trade, offering unwanted clothes to the models in lieu of cash. An off-skelter schedule toe-jammed with shows which means major conflicts every day. Clients switching around casting directors with reckless abandon. Casting directors taking shows that pay a grand total of $4,000. And the compensation to the models is still “trade” which means said casting director is expected to solicit top girls for next to nothing while being paid next to nothing. It is not as glamorous a living as you'd hope to think.
Submitted by Wayne on Sun, 2007-08-26 03:50.
Chris Burden's dedication to the ideal of the extreme has made a myth of the man. From his graduate piece in his Master Of Fine Arts program at UC Irvine where he locked himself in a school locker for five days, to his decision in November 1971 to make a piece called "Shoot", in which a friend fired a gun fifteen feet away from him to create a "wound" as art piece, Burden has certainly pushed art's self-definition to its edge. Almost self-destructively so. But it is the April 23 1974 performance, in Venice California when Burden had himself cruxified to a Volkswagen and then driven for probably a good 30 seconds on a speedway, that his place was secured in the annals of art infamy. It was supposed to be the kind of anti-art, not made for consumption or for that matter- for posterity - but here it is, one of the greatest images in contemporary art history and the cover moment of the must-buy overview of Burden's work. Currently available via D.A.P. By Locus and Publishing Co. $85.00.
Submitted by Wayne on Fri, 2007-08-24 10:30.
From I-phones to limited edition Nikes, why has design become this much of a market force? Is it that we're experiencing an on-going visual evolution of contemporary culture in the same way we are under-going a technological revolution? I'm not trying to write a master's thesis. (Part of the discipline of The Imagist for me is to learn to be...succinct). I'm just trying to figure out how the hell the whole world got to be so design sensitive. When did American product packaging start to overwhelm its content? To personalize the issue a little bit... I was out out to dinner last night with a pal from an ad agency, when the subject turned to Fabien Baron and his powerhouse agency Baron and Baron. It is not a company anymore it seems.It is a brand in itself, if you'll pardon that dirty word..."brand".
Baron you know from the firm's traditional image management of magazines : Paris Vogue, the 90's Harper's Bazaar- which obviously I've been looking at a LOT- Interview magazine, Arena Homme +, as well as fashion ads -most notably Calvin Klein. We gossiped a little bit about the influence Le Baron and Karl Templer now had over the direction of Calvin, down to the models, in which that team seems not to be as personally invested in. Certainly not the way Calvin the man invested in Kate Moss and Brooke Shields and now no girl or boy for Calvin is allowed to be a bigger story than the clothes.
Submitted by Wayne on Wed, 2007-08-22 14:19.
Submitted by Wayne on Wed, 2007-08-22 06:18.
Who misses the controlled extravagance of the M/M (Paris) pages of Paris Vogue? Who didn't buy extra copies of V Man 1 to archive that landmark "Alphabet Story" that turned the leading male mannequins of that moment into letters of the alphabet? . The Imagist is guilty on all counts and is planning to pay penance by buying Alphamen,a limited edition box set of 27 one colour silkscreen prints (in an edition of 26 at aprx. $8,000). That is, unless you beat TI to the punch. If you do we're just going to have to settle for the book Inventory/Inventoire (multiple edition at aprx $20).
Submitted by Wayne on Wed, 2007-08-22 02:24.
Fashion Week with its 16 hr days is upon us. To survive, it's all about the brilliantly bad movies before bedtime. Tonight's feature presentation is..."Exposed" . Directed by James Toback . Starring Nastassja Kinski (y'know daughter of, famous for the snake shot by Avedon) and Rudolph Nuryev (where does one start). They're lovers. She's a model. He's a violinist. Shot in NY and Paris. Back copy says " a seductive romantic thriller that takes you into the glittering world of high fashion- and the murky, violent mileu of international terrorism". Very credible, this premise, no? But we love the poster's reference to exposed film stock and Nasty Kinky's high 80's hair. Available only on VHS. Alas!