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Marya at Silent is the kind of unique girl that you hope will present a new proposition for SS11Marya at Silent is the kind of unique girl that you hope will present a new proposition for SS11

I had a conversation with a client this morning about a potential fashion show casting gig. To be honest I went into the conversation prepared to say "Unfortunately I can't take this assignment". I love the client but I'm bored to the bone by the politics of bookings. I don't want to talk to bad bookers. I don't want to explain or complain or justify or coax or convince. If you feel it let's swing. If you don't I will respect that and move on. I tried to be honest about my misgivings...which was this. Booking shows now is one big , nasty, snarling cluster-fuck. Everything stumbles over everything itself. The agents and models make no money despite all the noise and drama.It's all conflicts and cancellations and callbacks and "reconsiderations" when girls your client dismissed at an earlier go-see shows up in someone else's show. All of a sudden she looks "right". That is precisely what I've come to despise about the job. We always seem to be waiting for the approval of someone else's tastes . But then I said to myself..."Don't let negativity drive your viewpoint. You've survived these 10 years because you always kept your clarity " and I found myself writing down the words:


I mused aloud " I wish we had a budget to fly in 21 girls that no-one has ever seen before and put them back on a plane the following day, never to be seen again. That is the perfect casting in my mind for Spring 2011."

My client got excited by that outrageous idea and suddenly I think I find myself committed. Flying 21 unknown girls in and out of NYC is not a financial option (besides there are houses in other cities that have pretty much mastered that trick already) but the idea of looking for a new proposition in models is a valid challenge. The great hope for that probably lies in just not talking at all to jaded bookers, cynical bookers, burnt out bookers or neurotic bookers. That would be the first step of the edit. And maybe that's where the exorcism for all the negative energy swilling around the modeling industry lies. Thankfully these days because there are too many models (and willfully so) a client can easily walk away from a bad dialogue. So to turn a dark moment into a challenge my dream is for a re-direction of the SS11 booking traffic into those venues where agents still burn with passion and hunger and drive. I find myself obsessed with the board at Silent for instance, where the idea of privacy, mystery and silence has a pointed meaning. I noticed that Ford NY has dimmed down the ceaseless hype around their New Faces and have taken to a policy of containment. I very much like the sustained scouting that Next has been doing in keeping its momentum humming. I have continued faith in IMG for being unerring in their guidance of breaking faces like Jac and Joan Smalls but also I'm going to give full respect to quiet, hardworking boards like Muse or Major where a stunning girl just might surface. So there it is, the love-hate relationship with the thing I do. I wonder how the body of those star making casting directors like Marsh , Lee and Brokaw will solve the redundancy of a model formula that has been burnt down to fatigue? I'm praying for the explosion of a new proposition.

The only way 21 girls never

The only way 21 girls never seen before would be interesting would be if they refused to go along with the never seen again proposition! They are human beings not toys! So if they refused to have no career stormed off and said notice me ! They'd be a lot more interesting to me.. can you imagine Lara hanne gaby eliza Ashley smith putting up with that? That's why they interest me.. I want to see girls this season maybe curvy maybe thin maybe short maybe tall but all full with something to offer rather than perfect stats .. Some personality .. They bring something to the table themselves! That would interest me !!

Miss Wayne comes together again

Miss Wayne coming together again. So who are these bad bookers that you're reading now. Spit it out bitch!

It would be my observation

It would be my observation that the identities of the "bad bookers" is not in the telling but rather in the not telling. This would fit TI's communication style and his elegance. Re-read the article. "Silence" was mentioned more than once!! The answer to your question is there. Invisible to some. Glaringly obvious to me. Further, I would have to agree with TI in the mentioning of the agencies doing it right. And I respect the "silence" of not even bothering to mention the ones who are clearly not. Class dismissed!

i still dont get it. =(

i still dont get it. =(

La la la- Jay-Z

In all honesty, what you are proposing, as you said, is not new or revoutionary. Its been done and I think with today's market, the emphasis is being made on longevity and invesment clothing, which is why there has been the return of the "supermodel" or at the very least known models. Models, with age and character, give life to the clothing. Instead of a sea of a thousand nameless faces, which gave the feeling of emptiness, better suited for fast fashion, buy it today, throw/give it away soon after.

I think a more modern idea of casting , would be a hybrid of both. Use models from the 80's/90's/00's, that were popular enough, but not quite supermodels, giving the feeling of familiarity and establishment, but still with the wonderment of a new model e.x. the S/S 11 Kenzo men's fashion show had Caroline de Maigret, Joana Preiss and Jenny Shimizu. When I saw Caroline , I thought to myself "I know her, Who is she? I recognize that face". She added depth to the clothing, without overpowering them or the designers vision.
I would love to see Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin again or Gin Clarke, Eve Salvail, Ariane(asian YSL model) and countless others return in these modern times bringing with them, a certain joie de vivre.

Diversity on all levels

I sorta agree with the comment above. If you take a look at the casting that's being done right now for editorials in magazines, it's totally different than a year or even a couple of months ago. Right now you see completely different types of beauty of all ages and all ranges of experience or status in the modelling world paired together in one and the same shoot. Like in M&M's ed for VP september with Daphne (totally fresh and young), Lea T (a transgender, hello!) and Malgosia (late nineties, early zeroes).....or On The Town in US Vogue with Eliza, Mirte, Kristen, Stella, Jourdan, Liya, Miranda, Lara, Daria S, Valerija, Guinevere, Kirsi, Carolyn, Karlie and Joan. All so so so so so different yet it feels like a perfect match. I think that will be the key for the S/S 11....finding all those different beauties of different backgrounds that make a perfect match when paired together. It's diversity on every level you can think of. Fly in 21 unknowns for S/S 11 and everyone will be bored. Cast a show opened by a 16 year old, 2nd exit VS Angel, throw some late nineties girls in the mix, let a 40 year old close and you're right on the money for S/S 11.

wasnt that vuitton last

wasnt that vuitton last season? i think there is a way to do it well. Elle McPherson was a bit much for me.

What was wrong with Elle

What was wrong with Elle McPherson?

Taste is a dictatorship.

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