Will Lisanne de Jong at Elite rise about the SS10 flood of new faces
Of the 17 girls (and think about that figure) that emphatically broke through on the SS10 runway market only 6 are holding significant campaign and editorial options at this point. That is an important qualifier..."at this point"...because unlike previous seasons, that circle of power photographers who decide which models cross over from all that runway traction into blue chip work seem to be holding back on their campaign shooting. There is not the usual feeding frenzy to lock up those hyped new faces . No epic "New Faces" edit yet at W, no New Prada Contingent marching through Vogue Italia...yet. This is an indicator that the campaign castings are going to run even more conservatively than in recent years, skewing back to the Raquels, Sashas and Natashas, if there is even a model on the premises. Celebrities are going to continue to take a huge chunk of those choice bookings and new models...? They are certainly going to skew in that very pretty direction in your SS10 books. Though model management should be too elegant and mystical an endeavor to reduce to stats...well... here are the stats. Of the 30% of those new faces holding strong options with powerful photographers, only half will confirm. Which means of that group of :
Deborah Muller
Lisanne de Jong
Patricia Van Der Vliet
Anastasia Kuznetsova
Antonella
Jacquelyn Jablonski
Kate Kosushkina
Mirte Maas
Lindsey Wixson
Frida Gustavasson
Kristy Kaurova
Bergje Heinen
Emily Didonato
Keke Lindgard
Shu Pei
Sharon Kavjian
..only 3 of those girls will be left standing 6 months from now. Those are not bad odds as fashion should be a selective enterprise . I've said it in the past to howls of outrage that I like this constant turnover, I like the arbitrary disposal of new models because I hope it will mean only the best of the best survive. But the critical question is, as a a manger how do you convince clients that your girl is indeed one of those three? The answer to that question used to be the domain of the giants of the trade, IMG and the Women/Supreme structure. But another interesting trend that occurred this season was the breaching of those walls by Marilyn (in representing a girl who banned the opening slot at Prada an honor traditionally battled over by IMG and Women,) New York Models (Patricia), Major (Kristy) , Request (Emily), Wilhelmina (Keke) and One (Deborah).Can these mavericks manage a new girl with the acuity of IMG or Women/Supreme? That is the game that will unfold in the next month.
If as a manager you keep failing to beat the odds, will there be a future for you, your girls or your agency? Models and agents work themselves to exhaustion every season and every season comes the demoralizing realization that all that work and stress yielded no money for either agent or model. And what was the value of that long, 4 city parade of shows? The hope that the visibility thereof gave the girl a fighting chance because US Vogue noticed her or that Steven will pick up the option on her now. 3 out of 17. Place your bets on who you think might have risen to the occasion. You might very well be surprised.
The Dutch 3
It is always interesting t see who makes it or not. I have heared a lot about the supossed: DUTCH 3. They are Lisanne de jong, Mirte Maas and Patricia van der Vliet. They did the best things after the shows. They say they are the dutch version of the trinity.(linda/naomi/Christy) Ofcourse they are no where NEAR what those models did. But they are the best of the new bunch of Dutch models. To be honest I like them the best of the new Dutch bunch. We will see if the Dutch are the new Brazilians.If we get a new Isabella and giselle. I have heared rumours of campaigns that they already did. And editorials. It is looking extremely good for them. Lets see if they deserve to be the Dutch 3. lets see in Feb. and see who kicks ass during that showseason ,had amazing editorials and Campaigns. Then we can decide. I think people like to see models , stick around longer.You can relate to a girl. Not a new anonymous face every 6 months.
Lets hear your thoughts about this.
:)
of course this sounds
of course this sounds romantic. but let's see which girls are still on top in 2 or 3 years. bette franke? 3 or 4 seasons on TOP, right alongside coco and freja who were just as new and promising, but bette moved in a different direction and now she's not a fashion face anymore (though still having a good career). you can never know. like wayne says, you can't know anything. there's potential, there's smart bookings but it doesn't mean shit. better to forget about expectations.
The Dutch 3
I do agree these are the strongest fresh Dutch faces. To compare them to the original trinity is a bit too much. I like them for their difference but of all 3 I think Mirte will have the best and longest carreer, she is here to stay!
The thing is last week I found out both Mirte and Patricia were discovered by the same scout from Holland allegedly when both did not look like models at all still overweight with babyfat. They used to be at the same agency when the scout was still headbooker there.
Before everyone corrects me, yes this woman also did the scouting for Hollands Next Topmodel and actually scouted Patricia for the program. So good job to her and since I heard she left that agency maybe someone should actually offer her a good job for having such an amazing eye, just saying.
Frida frida frida.... in
Frida frida frida....
in seasons to come, we will still be seeing Frida.
magic.
so far a selected group of
so far a selected group of certain new faces on the list have shot 2 major campaigns already, in some cases replacing celebrities of previous seasons, so to suggest they're completely meaningless to a brand or designer is a bit too far fetched..
however even if the new faces book great A list campaigns and even multiple A list campaigns in the same season, it's the continuity that really matters.
It's not impossible to create new 'supermodels', it just takes time and personality...look at Lara Stone. Not doing a lot of shows, limited campaigns and yet she's been on every cover that counts in the past 2 years. In most cases with her name spelled out.
" I've said it in the past
" I've said it in the past to howls of outrage that I like this constant turnover, I like the arbitrary disposal of new models because I hope it will mean only the best of the best survive."
we may like or dislike the disposal of new models - it's just the way this industry reacts to the challenge of time so it's a norm we can't really influence, therefore, have to accept no matter how it makes us feel. but let's be honest here: we've been a part of it for way too long. think of all those 'alerts', 'must sees' and 'scoops' we've been raving over. every new girl in town, every new face we could get on our collective plate - we speculated about them, celebrated them, loved them and loathed them. we got to the point when we praised the girl, her booker and entire universe for just having her first digits done. it has become hype for the sake of hype, a certain game of vanity in terms of 'hey, i've found this new girl who is totally jaw-dropping. why? you don't know her yet?'. basta!
so really? who do we have to blame now? the agencies who are, to me, more driven by the fear of letting 'that damn booker from the vilian camp' get his hands on any Romanian or Dutch girl in sight instead of wanting to actually have this girl on their board and, what is even more important, put some effort in actually developing her, rather than dropping her into the whirlwind of castings and go-sees in hope someone's going to bother noticing her. shall we blame the casting directors who have everything the want and even more knocking on their doors, in every color, every shape and every possible state of eyebrows-bleaching? or shall we blame the clients who, at the end of the day, want to get value for their money and turn to the girls who actually can appeal to their clients instead of delivering this sort of amusement of 'who is this girl?'. WE are to be blamed. for wanting everything and wanting it right away.
my main concern is, as plain as it sounds, about these girls being young living creatures who are made believed in their career opportunities and are seduced by the promises of becoming the new Kate Moss. aren't we responsible for the 'disposal' of their dreams? aren't we being too cynical for taking them and shoving down this business' throat? so far, my answer is yes, we are. which is a sad thing to admit.
dbp
well Wayne, it seems that
well Wayne, it seems that your way of thinking has become more conservative, and i like that!
From all those girls, 3 might be remembered 6 months from now, but im sure at least 15 of them will be forgotten in the next 2 years. Fashion will always look up to celebrities and stabblished supermodels because they SELL, they literally dont give a f*** for a new face. She can walk, she can talk, but what will she give an agency in return???
The bad thing capitalism applied to fashion is that: unless you can make your good lucks convert into money you are something, if you cant, you´re thrown in the trash can, or get flushed. I´d love to be back in the 90s wher so many girls dreamed of being the next Cindy Crawford (Alessandra Ambrósio and Kirsty Hume wanted to be models and they made it!) and they had chances because the market was asking for more good looking girls. Now the market is flooded with girls that seem to be made of the same mold, they´re all blondes, and have blue eyes - and although i know that this image sells - with so many women looking the same, we tend to somehow get bored of them all. I would loooooove to know why people are so persistently trying to promote Lindsay Wixon and Mirte Maas! These girls mean NOTHING to the fashion industry! They are literally TRASH to many designers, who will always give a stabblished girl a spot in their campaign, because they can convert their image into cash, and the dollars/euro bills is what they want, and thats all. I like Mirte (100% dislike Lindsay) and i know that we are talking about human beings that have feelings, but all above is something thank must be said, whether people wanna know about it or not. Lindsay might get the Prada campaign, she was chosen to do runway for the brand, but thats not gonna make her the next big thing in fashion. Unless Mirte shaves those tacky eyebrows shes not gonna go anywhere.
We should focus on some girls to promote them, not to throw them ramdomly as if they were things.
I'm not conservative Gustavo
I just dress that way these days...but seriously my feeling that this constant turn over is a great thing for clients remains the same. Like everybody in fashion, a great model should work hard to get and keep her success. New times...new rules...Give a lot of girls a chance and then leave it up to the right girls and the strong girls to learn how to rise to the occasion. Survival of the fittest...heightened competition..all that...This is not the 80's or 90's. I don't want to live in the past as this is impossible. The reality of our times is everything moves faster now...including the booking life of hot models. Girls like Lara Stone, Freja , Anja Rubik, Jessica Stam ..became stars because they all are kick-ass, straight up inarguably GREAT models. A great model is not a "type" or a "look"...Doutzen grew up to be a powerhouse, but y'know what...so did Sasha P . Why do you assume you know the eternal definition of beauty? Did you know when Kate Moss started she was dismissed as "too short" "too plain" "too thin" and a "disaster on the runway. "They"..the people who know everything ..said Kate Moss will never last. You don't want to hear the things people had to say abt Karen Elson either. They said Karen Elson would never last. Beauty is a convention and it is a convention that grows out of the times we live in. As such all conventions should be challenged and questioned and updated constantly. Gustavo I appreciate the passion of your strong views. This is your realness. Let me give you mine. You do not get to decide whether or not Mirte (or her "tacky eyebrows') is going to be 'the next big thing in fashion". Mirte and her management gets the final say as to how much versatility, grace, presence and power and booking smarts will be brought to her career. People's potential can be veeeery unpredictable. Please keep an open mind . Because if its one thing I've learnt is nobody knows shit about shit in fashion.We're all making this up as we go along no?
in terms of faces, i think
in terms of faces, i think the only really new interesting faces are emily, lindsay, bregje, mirte, patricia. they dont look like anyone else. lisanne, debora, keke, are too normal. kristy i dont get at all. frida and antonella i think are too tall to do everything, anastasia k - are you kidding? that is a huge WTF to me. Sharon and kate are too junior and look too lost, shu pei is amazing, but not new, and jaquelyn is gorgeous, but may suffer from poor management. lets hope ford can build her career. i can see the 1st 4 making it into vogue and maybe jaquelyn if they play their cards right.
putting my money on
Patricia, Mirte, and Lisanne
totally right
Yes, you see ..........The Dutch 3.
Mirte & Frida stay. loooove
Mirte & Frida stay. loooove those two! Emily Didonato could have a bright future but she's commercial enough to survive and make good money irregardless of high fashion jobs.
the rest can shoot some thingies i'm sure. a miu miu campaign, prada, d&g or whichever campaign decides to hire some new faces. and prepare to go back to uni september 2010.
p.s. there were even more emerging new girls like Ginta Lapina, Nicola Haffman, Hannah Holman and Nicole Hofman, curious why they're not on the list
p.p.s. Prada casting this season was so uninteresting that it makes me wonder if this is their intended direction for the new faces machine
lol, ginta has been around
lol, ginta has been around for years
of course, but she only hit
of course, but she only hit the scene now
what about lindsey scott,
what about lindsey scott, rel dade and rose cordero??
emily d is already sort of a
emily d is already sort of a campaign girl by doing Guess right? plus maybelline. i mean it's not Prada but bigger than anything any of the girls have done so far that i know of.
Frida G should be one of the 3
if i had to wager on 2 others it would be Kate Kosushkina and Mirte
yeah I agree in terms of
yeah I agree in terms of lucrative campaigns and contracts Emily surpasses them all.. by a long-shot. But I guess TI is mainly making a case for her high fashion appeal, her cross-over (reverse cross-over?) to high fashion. I think she has nothing to lose really.. if she doesn't make the cut, she still has Maybelline keeping her pretty (and possibly Victoria Secret in her future?).
Emily's already done VS.
Emily's already done VS.
Yes I know she has done VS
Yes I know she has done VS catalog, lots and lots and lots of girls do their catalog. I am mainly talking about high profile campaigns for the brand.
Emily Jac Frida Done. †
Emily
Jac
Frida
Done.
†