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WAITING FOR THE MYTH OF THE NEW: The Zeroes Are Dead

But will the same old references suffice?But will the same old references suffice?

Can you believe it is over? The Zeroes I mean . That first decade of this new century which started out with such a boom (The dot.com boom to be specific...a US budget surplus...The rise of India, Russia and China as new super-consumer nations ) is finished and it finishes in tatters. The extremes between the bookends of those boom day beginnings and this current moment where we're all feeling crushed and confused is fascinating to experience. Except there's something weird going on in the image industry. Fashion advertising and editorials with their photo-shopped -synthetic women waving handbags and branishing their impossible shoes keeps sailing in that luxurious, hedonistic cloud...as if nothing unpleasant has happened in the past year. Big book advertising down by 35%? Not to worry, the aspirational dream keeps twinkling...undiminished. Here's the art school genre of photographer skillfully arranging an army of today's coolest into a compositionally challenging array of limbs and line just like it were 2005. Sticking to what you know...refusing to panic...staying on message. It shows admirable composure. But when you look at the numbers behind the image (and believe me fashion is truly nothing but the numbers at the end of the business day) it becomes even more astonishing to consider how unaltered the imagery of fashion remains.
Take the modeling industry for instance. At the start of this decade,flush with all that luxury conglomerate cash, designers would lock a model in for a Gucci/YSL/Dior/Prada campaign for that effortless 100K booking. Now on every level... contract, campaign and catalog, the modeling industry has seen those fees diminish to near starvation levels. But can you the consumer see it in the picture? Can you sense that the model, all models, (except for the ones like Kate Moss clever enough to brand themselves beyond the vagaries of the booking table) have been diminished ? Have you noticed too, that the models this season are gone from Burberry (enter Emily Watson) and Dior (enter Marion Cotillard) , from Vuitton (Madonna) or are wondering around like digital ghosts sporting vacant heads on other people's body (Donna Karan) even as The Ralph Collection campaign is looking like backstage out-takes.
And if you're trying to figure out the whys and the ways of that bi-annual musical chairs of blue chip photographers jumping from one seasonal campaign to another, then it is a valuable clue to know that reduced fees are the great motivation for that change in creative teams. The great ones, those industry kingpins who are inevitably very shrewd businessmen have not compromised their rates. The budgets can dip from those other departments...namely the model fees but not from their core rates.
The multi-million dollar question is ...can you continue to move the product with the same imagery that has persisted for nearly 10 years now? Can you still photo-shop it to within an inch of its hyper-real life and move the consumer? Will the same old references suffice? For all that creative talent that is now 10 years older, the question is how do you address the emotions, the fears, the desires and the anxiety of your viewership. Beyond the willfully sustained bubble that is fashion...can you sense what is going on out there in that real world...Do you feel that and do you know how to reflect that?
"Real world" interestingly enough now means "internet" as much as it means "streets" and as punters talk about the inevitable demise of print magazines, they equally express utter confusion as to what fashion in the digital space might mean. For all these blogs and all that twittering hyper-ventilating about fashion as a medium, no-one seems to figure out how to translate that into money. Yesterday I had brunch with a friend who works in advertising. I was schooled to the shocking fact that his company has no plans to ever spend a cent on the internet. Why? Because every ad, every runway image for the brand in question is disseminated fitfully and comprehensively on thefashionspot, on models.com... fashionologie,...fashionista for free. "Internet means free ," he asserted and with that point of view I found myself challenged to find new ways of thinking about all the tried and true practices of advertising, publicity, press and exposure.
The answers as to how to bring the money back ...to the modeling agencies, to the stores, to the magazines, to the internet are not self-evident. But you if you love fashion for its cultural power, you hope that somewhere and somehow the great creative minds of that culture might reason that changing the vocabulary of that imagery might be necessary and might create excitement and might inspire. I mean The Zeroes are near over no? Maybe we could start to talk about fashion within the mythology of the new. For perversity's sake.

the million dollar question

the answers as to how to bring the money back ...to the modeling agencies, to the stores, to the magazines, to the internet are not self-evident.

I think the first step is to stop treating people like they're still dumb enough to buy crap with a label on it.

What i love about the

What i love about the creative people behind fashion is their (h)ability to reinvent things, like the designers (try to) do - some of them - every 3 months, when it is physically and mentally possible. The Zeroes might be coming to an end, and im sure that the 'same old references' wont suffice.
Nothing stays on top for too long, it is a dogma, its the pure physics of time. Fashion, like any other subject, is related to the capacity of the human-being to absorb what is around him, and those inspirations should become fuel to ignite his mind and his ingenuities - if there´s any left.
Today, with the rise of the internet and all that black mass that comes along - pornography, spoilers of any kind, a so called 'freedom' that has become a real cybernetic slavery - people are bombarded with too many information that comes from too many sources that always find new ways to throw numbers, images and characters right in front of our eyes like if we were begging for it - which we dont. People feel weak and sometimes weakness cannot be converted into something new, groundbreaking or even nice. Take for instance the Art scene: every week there´s a new artist whose works of art can be easily around 5 or 6 figures just a couple years later after he gets praised by some almost-relevant art critic - and i thank God that Roberta Smith and Robert Hughes are still alive and keen on writing those extra fabulous reviews that can enlight our minds about the perils of the art market.
When it comes about fashion - which is the principal subject of my life AND this website - it gets even worse. I remember a post entitled 'Kim Peers was here' that mentioned how girls used to get paid really high for showing their pretty faces in front of the camera. That golden age of fashion is GONE and you know what? Im somewhat happy that it happened, because right now, if agencies still wanna make money, they will have to stop throwing girls in the market like garbage in the trashcan. Where is their humanity with the new models?
Why we love Kristen McMenamy, Nadja Auermann and Linda? Its not just because they started 20 years ago when fashion was more faity tale than mexican drama but because back in that time they knew if a model´s career was well conducted, it could end up earning money and prestige to both model and agent. Like i said once - becoming a model nowadays is like a fad; girls wanna be models today like women wanted to be stewardesses in the ´50s.
You fantasize about something thats on the media, something that´s thrown in your face in a very glamorous way. Hannibal Lecter cited to Clarice Starling that "You only covet what you see" and that glorious line from The Silence of the Lambs brings a lot of light to me right this minute. Girls buy magazines, girls log on the internet, girls see Gisele in the media, Cindy in a work out video and then everybody wants to be a model. What happens is that there are many pretty girls out there and many of them could become successful in the fashion biz IF their careers are conducted properly by the agents. Twenty years ago you had a handful of models who could sell from $100 sunglasses to 40K travel backpacks because they were worthy, they were taken care of, not only the supers, but also the other ordinary ones.Now you have a bunch of teenagers who look like vampires, lifeless walking hangers moving their twiggy legs back and forth on the runways around the globe, trying to act like supermodels that they miserably fail to resemble. If they dont have the perfect skin, it doesnt matter, there´s Photoshop to put an end to those imperfections. The models cant pose? The photographers and assistants yell at her telling how easily they would replace her so that she can shut up, dry her tears and try to feel relieved that the 4500 dollars she´ll get are enough to pay rent for a month and also to buy lettuce. She´s not Naomi, not Christy, no one will notice if she disappears at any moment, nobody knows her name because there are too many names to memorize. The girl is just worth the money she makes!
Good photographers come every once in a while and i hope there´s a new crop of them coming because !oh my friends!, ten years from now Meisel might be dead and Bruce and Inez and the others might be sailing around the globe in a 7 million dollar yatch. Those 'kingpins' get paid what they want because their magic transcended time, fashion editors, bad models, supermodels, and new faces. There were enought people paying attention at what they did and
do, praising them for their skills and willingness to sacrifice health and life in favor of fashion. PLus, they´re few and good at what they do. Can you imagine if every week there was a new 'it photographer'? What a nightmare that would be! The pictures a photographer take should contain magic, making the consumers fly to the stores and satisfy their thirst for consumerism...but there are sooo many products to be bought, so many new labels, it bags, it shoes, it personal buyers, it stylists, it everything.
Its a mess, a total chaos. So many things going on at the same time that we just simply cannot absorb it. The Media should be more careful from now on, what they´re doing is not promoting, is more like a boom of information that leads to a sort of numbness.
Photoshop cannot erase the blatant lifelessness of a model picked among a thousand girls who look the same, surrounded by an industry that tries to sell dreams in the form of a lie, a merchandise made yesterday that came out of a 5-minute-brainstorm that is destined to rotten in the shelves around the globe. I wish i could buy thousands of books from Zygmunt Baumand and handle them to every person involved with the fashion business. We´re living in an age of excess, where happiness means money. And making money is becoming more important than satisfaction, and when a human need like personal satisfaction is left aside, things are about to go really wrong.

Gustavo

Thanks for that Gustavo. Do you have a website, or blog where we can read more of your insight? or perhaps an email to get in touch..

Its a pleasure to get in

Its a pleasure to get in touch with the fashion crowd! Sometimes i feel lonely here in south america!

Im delighted with every

Im delighted with every character of this very insightful text, though i need to read it twice or even more to write an appropriate reply! But thank you Wayne!

eleanor's picture

BRAVO

Bravo Gustavo, bravo Wayne!

We need to think about these things. And think: WHY do we love fashion (or art)? WHAT makes it exciting for us? WHAT has caused this paralysing self-referentialism, this lack of new modes or new approaches? HOW can we rescue that which we love about fashion? And, if we can rescue it, WHEN will we?

For the sake of those who TRULY love fashion (for fashion's sake, not solely for the pseudo-glamour), we MUST push forward! We need to act now, and retrieve the magic ... it's almost gone, even from those who once possessed it in spades. Not by any fault of their own, but rather the fault of this media/consumer monster that Gustavo describes, and to which we are all simultaneously agents to and victims of.

SO: let us welcome the new decade with all this in mind, conscious of what has happened and excited for what COULD happen if we choose to allow it.

raddestrightnow.blogspot.com

thank god..

It is so wonderful to read something as refreshing as this.
Thanks guys. Also I would like to say something.
1. Just because something has a label doesn't mean it crap
2.is this the same Gustavo who did thoes amazing illustration that would be display in soundfactory back in the day....

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Taste is a dictatorship.

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