Dior Homme SS 09 Image courtesy of frillr.com
TI received this email from a reader this morning concerning the last Dior Homme show. I loved the honesty of the viewpoint and I'd like to invite more readers to share their perspective here. This is what TI member RB had to say:
"Some brands we all know and few know the designers behind each brand. We
had Heidi Slimane for Dior, who changed the aesthetic of the dress down
day-to-day man. Now under this magnum label we have Kris Van Assche who is
a past Dior trainee, who at the moment struggles to find his own aesthetic
under this label whose is been closely watch not only by editors and
critics but by all those guys (including myself) that 2 years ago describe
ourselves with that Dior look. The skinny tie, the skinny jeans, the fitted
shirts, the metallic high tops and a leather jackets.
That Dior aesthetic didn't include muscle or and ribbed tees a la D&G, but
it was more of having that spirit of youth, that casualness and non caring
attitude of an effortless being. The Dior kid was slim, maybe weighting
the most at 130pounds, it was sleek, his ipod had music The Libertines to
some Jay-Z.
Dior Homme and its significance was that beauty was in the most scaring
details of us, in the long shaggy hair, in our fragile frame and most
importantly in securing ourselves in a cotton armor that was mysterious
yet sexy, dark but not Goth, cool without trying to be. This is what Dior
Homme is, but the most relevant questions are what’s Dior doing to that
man, who isn't willing to put on dust their skinny and oversize t-shirts.
Romanticism sure made it onto Assche first real runway for Dior, now for
Spring Summer 2009 what is this blingtastic emporium he as made? If Assche
stopped trying so hard, he can actually fit into what Dior Homme is all
about."
Kris Van Assche blind ambition
The argument surrounding Dior Homme should not be Dior no longer looks like Hedi Slimane. It should be looked at by the success of the visual language of the designer and their relevance in todays culture. Kris is producing clothes that harken to a very day-glow club kid (Stephen Sprouse) meets Flock of Seagulls. Hedi referenced relevant counter culture be it rock stars and skaters (lets face it everyone has a desire to be Mick Jagger or David Bowie for the day.) Slimane was purchased by men and women alike. It had a coolness that gave a look to a period similar to Helmut Lang in the 90's. It doesn't seem that Kris has that power. Kris is referencing the undesirable's and unmentionables of the 80's because the 80's are the flavor of the moment. I feel that Raf Simons has more of an over all appeal than Kris and it sad to see a house such as Dior to have invested in an assistant to Hedi in hopes to bring back some of the essence of Hedi.
Joseph Stalnaker
My sympathies
I understand, and I sympathize. Change is inevitable, change is good; but change is not always comfortable. It seems true – Van Assche cannot be expected to be Slimane. But, some can still mourn. Also, does this mean the look must die? The essence of the Dior man must not.
new dior men
A FUN FUN SHOW VERY 80's and models did not look starving and dead LOL thank GOD
It is only fashion
why so glum
why not FUN
We only pretend it is important.
bravo to new dior
and maybe models can eat a half a plate more a day!
joe lally
ps why is it some people do not put their names why so shy or are you fearful??
my opinion
i believe no one will ever forget slimane influence and style over menswear
but i do think it's time to change !!! that's fashion after all
Hedi did what Armani did two decades ago !! it will be forever in books and in the fashion history
so now it would be nice lettin Kris work and make his own way
i felt sorry for him, seein how much people blame him for doin somethin sometimes so different from what Hedi did !!
but he's the artistic director and only his vision count and im sure in maybe few years, we'll be lovin him
and i found the latest dior full of blinks to Hedi work
after all he has been his assistant !
but anyway it's a new story for Dior Homme !!! let our wardrobe in peace !!
ray from wherethelightsend
Some change perhaps?
Kris Van Assche' show fo Dior Homme was interesting. I agree with some of RB's points, such as Van Assche searching for his aesthetic and the fact that Hiedi Slimane did exacerbate that punk-anorexic look that's instantly recognizable as Dior. But as Van Assche might tell it, he seems to be using the same ethos of Slimane but on a more masculine level. Loosening up the legs just a touch and adding some length which allowed some of the stacking. And we see the billowing tops harking on 80's inspiration. I wasn't crazy about some of the fabric finishes, but hey, it was a look. We see the loosening of those suits, again seemingly aimed towards a more masculine male whom holds his own at the dinner table perhaps?
RB may want to note that fashion houses inhabit change sometimes, some elbow room and a breathe of fresh air reinvigorates.
Personally, I thought the Slimane for Dior Homme look was getting a bit played out on the runway. If it was set to be Slimanes take on Dior Homme, It would have been Slimane behind the reigns.
Van Assche apparently is his own man who may very well intend on creating his own following. He is broadening the consumer horizons of Dior Homme I suppose. But by all means RB, it certainly doesn't mean that you have to stop dressing the way you do because of the change in creative director. Van Assche' upgrade doesn't erase the past. It still looks good on the streets, just make it your own and own it, which I suspect you have. From the aesthetic stand-point collectively, the easy, cool, fun lovin', young hipster with an edge is still very much alive in the collection. In any event, you can probably expect pieces more similar to Slimane' tailoring on the showroom floor.
And of course the time to "mess up" and experiment is more forgivable now than it would be a couple more seasons in.
Give him some time.
N.S. ;-)
I think there is a bit of a
I think there is a bit of a disconnect here? Reality check: Heidi Slimane is no longer at Dior Homme. Kris Van Asche is. so obviously he will bring a new silhoutte and image to Dior Homme. Its unfair, and unrealistic ,to expect Mr. Van Assche to carry on a look he did not create. Yes I loved the old Dior under Mr. Slimane as much as everyone else, but fashion moves on. I dont expect Stefano Pilati to give me Yves saint Laurent Circa the 80's. and I dont expect Frida Gianna at Gucci to give me Tom Ford. The Dior that we all loved is Dead. Now its Kris Van asches time to create his own cult following. Thats why he was hired. FYI (Rumor has it that they are courting heading to come back, so maybe the Dior you all so long for will be back!) other wise Get into it!
Dior Homme: who cares?
Imo DH has lost most or all of it relevance in todays fashion world. that being said KVA could have came up with amazing designs and re-released alot of Hedi's masterpieces to keep both sides happy, but he chose to cheese things up to almost a tacky level. Everyone knows the impact of Hedi Slimane and his cult following especially within the label so it amazes me when people cant understand when others complain that he is not Hedi. Hedi created Dior Homme, when someone takes over someone elses line they must draw from the past to create the future or the essence of the line will be lost. The ss 09 looks like it belongs in the circus or K-mart. How sad