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10 SPONTANEOUS THOUGHTS ON VOGUE ITALIA JULY 2008

"Here's this exquisite girl"....."What don't you get? She's a beautiful woman" Steven Meisel in the NY Times on Sessilee Lopez"Here's this exquisite girl"....."What don't you get? She's a beautiful woman" Steven Meisel in the NY Times on Sessilee Lopez

1. The big win is for Major's Sessilee Lopez. A cover, beautiful pictures and a on-the-record endorsement from Mr Meisel. She deserves all that!
2.Its very modern and very shrewd of Sozzanni and company to harness the passion and interest of internet fashion fans by pre-releasing the cover (virtually unheard of for VI) as well as a select group of images. TI bets newstand sales are going to be in-sane.
3.Edward Enninful's email quotes on Horn's "On The Runway" blog were amazing. This dispells for me the sentiment by some that this shoot was a cynical gesture.
4.The timing of the PR push is very interesting. Enough said LOL.
5.Oddly enough I cannot wait to see those Toccara Jones snaps
6. It was very real on Ms Sozzani's part to point out that Noemie's Vogue Paris cover wasn't supported by an inside ediitorial. Interesting enough the Hiss Squad told me Iman recently booked a Vogue Paris gig.
7.From Vogue Paris to US Vogue to Vogue Italia, Conde Nast editors are playing market leaders on that issue of diversity. It will be interesting to see the echo effect at other magazine groups but more importantly the advertiser response.
8. Which evokes the question made explicit by Horn, "Can black models sell (luxury) in 2008?" Two very powerful photographers, Nick Knight and Steven Meisel have gone on the record to say they are discouraged by clients from casting black models.
9. TI loves seeing Ashley Brokaw in the media spotlight.
10. Wonder who's the August VI cover. Hiss Squad alert!

N.S.'s picture

Fantastic happenings!

Kudos to Vogue Italia for this daring stand. I've had so much to say, but I still can't piece it together..
Thank heavens Steven Meise gave Sessilee that much deserved one up. She truly is exquisite. After her "BIG CHILL" spread in the Nov. 05'(?) Vogue US issue, I thought she was poised for a major eruption, but unfortunately the inevitable fate of black models followed suite. But none-the-less, the photos Meisel shot of all the women were stunning. It's understandable that VI would make such a move, anyone of color who has spent time in Italy knows first hand the bit of affinity many Italians seem to have for blacks/colored. Franca Sozzani and the VI crew, in my opinion, gave Vogue US a huge, shameful slap in the face, one long overdue.
It's almost like she took on the plight of the black struggle and said to the US, "here are your people who you've just about dismissed from the pages of your magazine". It's almost embarrassing that a country which isn't known for an impacting black population took such a stand. I know many of us flip through Vogue, issue after issue, month after month and can count the number of blacks appearing per issue on one hand, be it model or celebrity. And from my recollections, when blacks did appear they seemed to be smashed in towards the binding. Anyway. It's such a fantastic thing to see VI embracing the topic, hopefully Vogue US has gotten a clue or two, to adopt a just bit of social responsibility perhaps? In my opinion, black models can absolutely sell luxury. As long as the women and men are given a fair share of the pie, everything should work it's way out. But of course theres that underlying statement of whether or not black models are as aspirational as the caucasians, I can't recall who made the statement..but with this momentus moment being presented, hopefully more black models will take it and run with it. With that being said, the outcome of this time rests on both shoulders working in unison. Though the luxury consumer's response to the shift will be hawk-eyed, those atop fashion can sway the rift if they choose.. and they know that...

Thanks TI for your dedication to the cause and for introducing all of these issues in such crisp light!
I can't wait to see what happens in the times to come.

N.S. ;-)

Black Rule?

I think the new issue VI is a sham. First of all, VI has no influence on American fashion; its an experimental art magazine that's only for an elite few. Secondly, I think its a cop out that VI would comment on American Racism in Fashion when Italy is going through its own racist madness. Roma Gypsies are being burned out of camps, thousands of immigrants are being deported by the new Italian government. Go to the NY Times and read about it. I'll buy the issue, of course, but only for its novelty.

Curiosity Doesn't Kill...

This is a little bit off topic. I don't purchase Vogue Italia because: a) I can't read Italian. b) I can see editorial scans for free online (should I feel guilty about that? Hmmm). But I've often wondered about Vogue Italia's role in the scheme of things. It's an Italian magazine, but how big is New York's influence? It's obviously the artsy, little brother to Mama Vogue USA and it doesn't even come close in sales, but is Vogue Italia less of an Italian fashion magazine and more of an artsy, experimental extension of Vogue USA...publishing items that Vogue USA would LIKE to print but deems to big of a financial risk? And is VI so experimental that if one of its innovations catches on in Italy, it will eventually materialize in some form in Vogue USA? I don't know anyone outside of hardcore fashion people who read Vogue Italia.

Sorry to ramble...I guess the point I want to make is...if Conde Nast really wants to make a strong statement about fashion, why not just make it BIG in Vogue USA?

Interesting analysis

I have to give you points for that insight. I missed that myself, specifically the question of how big an impact the small circulation VI will have. It makes me think about.. .

1. The big PR push at The Times. This should bring a bigger readership to VI than it ordinarily attracts.

2. Magazines really seem to operate now as global machines as opposed to being bound by their local readership. The power of VI is not just the numbers..its its influence.. the impact it has on a small group of fashion professionals. Because it is seen as innovative it gains power from being a market leader.

3.Therefore I wouldn't characterize VI as a little brother to US Vogue...or an arty extension . Its Conde Nast, yes, but all these editors seem to operate quite independently of each other. I think what goes into each magazine is more the reflection of the tastes and philosophy of that given editor . VI is very Franca Sozzani..US Vogue 100% Anna Wintour, Vogue Paris is utterly Carine Roitfeld. Sometimes these editors seem to get a little competitive too. But that's human nature no?

The Power of VI

"The power of VI is not just the numbers..its its influence.. the impact it has on a small group of fashion professionals. Because it is seen as innovative it gains power from being a market leader."

I'm getting the full picture now. Thanks Wayne.

Beautiful images. Now,

Beautiful images.

Now, lets see if Vogue Italia will continue to use black models in upcoming months. To me, that is most important, not just throw them all in an issue. We shall see.....

BITCH PLEASE

"Mine is not a magazine that can be accused of not using black girls,” said Ms. Sozzani, "

Remember that scandalous Vogue Italia issue where the ONLY black girl was the maid?

WOW

that was... like THE best comment. you get sexy points

You're gving the kids realnesss..lol

So is it true that Marc named a bag after you. Deeply envious!!!!!

Go you good thing!!!!

I LOVE THIS!!!...as I've commented before.... i have nothing against a newbie who lives up to the hype and Sessilee brings it... !! If you're a newer girl in the midst of legends... you better rise to the challenge!...and Sessilee gives the other girls a run for their money and proves Meisel doesn't even have to defend his choice, because all the proof is there on the page, pictures speak louder than words in this case.
I love Meisel's comments in the NY Times about prejudice.
When the big NY agencies come scouting, they want to see all the girls who have the stats..... as a certain star athlete once said ... "they can measure the outside, but they can't measure the inside"

The belief that modeling is solely about the outside has produced a very boring landscape... Girls like agyness have changed this... she has something of her own, of value to bring to the creative table..... and all the girls on this cover have something special on the INSIDE... that has nothing to do with skin colour age, or weight
Actually it pees me off that people immediately switch too "lets hate on the Eastern Europeans" Hey, some of these girls are cool too, lets just rise up against super blandness in any place... sasha still rules man ..

can't wait to see the

can't wait to see the runways this coming sept.

A MAJOR MOMENT INDEED

THIS IS AN EXCITING DAY TODAY AT MAJOR. KATIA SHERMAN CHAMPIONED THIS GIRL AND HAS DONE A MASTERFUL JOB RE-POSITIONING HER BACK IN THE MARKETPLACE. ITS A MAJOR MAJOR MOMENT FOR US(PUN INTENDED) I LOVE MEISEL'S QUOTE, AND IT SAYS IT ALL..WHATS NOT TO GET!!!!!
THANKS WAYNE FOR BLOGGING THIS!

FIGHT THE POWERS THAT BE!LOL

JASON K/MAJOR

Vogue Italia - July 2008

How can something positive NOT come from this? It's beautiful. I love the fold-out composition of the covers with the individual faces. And it's hardly a cynical gesture. I interpret this to be an almost in-your-face statement: "Beautiful black faces are on the same planet...get used to it!"

The pre-release of this cover surprised me as well, being that this is Vogue Italia. A smart marketing move that heralds the significance of this landmark issue.

Your #8 question stirs up simultaneous feelings of outrage and hope. Outrage - because this IS 2008 and we're asking this ridiculous question. We haven't seen a fair share of ads go to black models since the supermodel era, when different colors and shapes were embraced, not shunned. Hope - because now this segment of the fashion consumer is represented again. An inevitable return to progress. The young internet fans love their Sashas and Snejanas but these girls are hardly considered a fair representation of the consumer.

Thanks, TI, for giving a rat's ass.

Taste is a dictatorship.

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